Iguazú National Park: Stay at Iguazú Falls, Argentina!
When planning our South America trip, we absolutely wanted to include Iguazú Falls! With a bit of magic, we got the awe-inspiring falls in the Atlantic rainforest in Iguazú National Park incorporated into our flight itinerary with a 2-day stay at the subtropical location!
The challenge has been to decide whether to see the falls from the Brazilian or the Argentinian side – or both! Most of the falls are on the Argentinian side, whereas its counterpart on the other side, Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil, is known for having the most spectacular, complete view.
The tallest fall is 82 metres (269 feet), which outcompetes Niagara Falls, where the longest drop is about 50 metres (164 feet). It is also a lot wider. The waterfall system contains between 150 and 300 separate falls, depending on the season.
The rainforest is the largest remnant of the Paranaense subtropical rainforest, part of the Interior Atlantic Forest. Once, it was a much larger forest, untouched by civilisation. Over time, the forest area has shrunk due to logging, agriculture and plantation forestry. During the last centuries, consciousness about its uniqueness gradually increased, and in 1934, it was eventually declared a national park.
The rich biodiversity includes more than 2000 species of plants, 400 species of birds and about 80 mammals. As a genuine primaeval forest, it is today absolutely outstanding. Therefore, it is not strange that it has become a favourite destination for both domestic and international tourism and perpetually draws thousands of visitors every year.
After crawling through a dozen reviews of both sides – the Argentinian and Brazilian parks, checking out the best places to stay to get the ultimate rainforest experience, we finally decided. Also, considering our time frame at Iguazú, we have chosen to limit ourselves to the Argentinian side! We seem to be able to get the best experience there, with several trails, a train ride in the jungle, and an extraordinary experience with falls both below, above and behind us. A boat ride under the falls or to San Martin Island can also be included for the brave ones!
We wish to stay inside or at least close to the park to make the most of our time at the falls – from sunrise until tiredness takes over in the evening! We have therefore checked many hotels, hostels and lodges near the National Park at Iguazú Falls, Argentina, to compare prices, transport times, etc.
The Gran Meliá Iguazú has outperformed all the others – despite the costs of staying there, and we finally have made a reservation! For one night only!
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When stepping out of the aircraft at Aeropuerto Internacional Cataratas Del Iguazú, probably more like an airfield, we immediately feel the climate change. There is a noticeable contrast between the colder air in Buenos Aires, where we come from, and the warmer, more humid rainforest climate at Iguazú.
After disembarking the plane, we look for the taxi stand inside the airport building. As there are five of us, we need two taxis to our first-night accommodation a few kilometres from Iguazú Falls. It is located between Iguazú National Park and the centre of Puerto Iguazú and features a gigantic outdoor swimming pool on the premises near the green rainforest. That is our first night accommodation at a much more affordable rate than the hotel inside Iguazú National Park.
It is off-season, and the place appears pretty empty – except for a few backpackers and the accommodating staff.
Most conveniently, we find out that the hotel can organise a taxi for 5 to Iguazú Falls, Argentina! The fare is even fixed – way below what we paid when arriving.
The taxi driver shows up as expected in the morning and takes us to the Argentinian Iguazú Falls. It works like a charm, and soon, we have both entrance tickets and are dropped right in front of Gran Meliá, where we will do an early check-in at 9 a.m. Thus, we will not have to carry our things inside Iguazú National Park.
Suspecting that he is one of the few taxi drivers with a taxi for 5, I enquire about the possibility of him coming back to take us to the airport on the Brazilian side the next day. Promptly agreeing, he even gives a very reasonable price! It is only a fraction of what we have seen that a taxi usually costs to go from Gran Meliá to the Brazilian airport!
When entering the hotel, it is not an exaggeration to say that we are slightly overwhelmed by the staff’s outfit. They all wear khaki shorts and jackets in the best safari style – not omitting the odd safari hat!
We get a distinguished service. The bellboy insists on taking our ‘luggage’ to the rooms. We only have tiny hand luggage-sized backpacks, which we could easily carry ourselves! However, there are etiquette rules to adhere to – and they should not be broken! We pass our lightweight luggage to him, and he places it on a hotel luggage trolley and draws it towards the lift. It is unnecessary to say that he expects a suitable tip when leaving us and our modest 7-kilo rucksacks behind in our rooms!
Rainforest view
Gran Meliá is perfect for experiencing Iguazú Falls here in Argentina. Already from the hotel, we see the clouds of water spray and perpetual mist rising from the falls in the distance. It is the ideal place to stay to listen to the rainforest at dawn when the birds and other animals wake up.
A plethora of fascinating animals live in the lush forest. Among others, the jungle is home to agile monkeys, cheeky coatis (the South American raccoons), tapirs, anteaters, jaguars, ocelots, caimans and vivid birds like toucans, plush-crested jays as well as a wide variety of colourful butterflies.
From Meliá’s saloons and rooms to the park side, you look directly down at the outdoor infinity pool, linking the hotel guests to the wild nature.
The animals here have integrated very well with civilisation. At least the monkeys! Before our bellboy disappears, he lets us politely know that under no circumstances should we leave our balcony door only closed – and not locked. The monkeys rule here, and they are clever. If we do not take appropriate precautions, we may end up with a monkey or two entering our room to try the drinks in the minibar! That has happened before!
Likewise, we should keep an eye on the coatis. He doesn’t recommend eating near them since they will likely try to snatch our food!
Shortly after arriving, we set off for adventures in the park. With a map, we plan an itinerary including the must-sees. The Green Train of the Jungle takes visitors to the Devil’s Throat or Garganta del Diablo. Tickets are required for this ride, so this is our first priority. It is an enticing train ride through the jungle, ending where the trail leading to the potent attraction begins.
We follow the path to the slightly scary swallowing depths, contemplating the beautiful, yellow and black plush-crested jays on the way. As a precaution against the water, we put on our plastic rain ponchos.
When we reach Garganta del Diablo, it seems to be in vain, though. The water-spraying hell, where the water abruptly falls into a gigantic hole, produces shower-like conditions for the spectators on the rim. We all get soaked! After all, it doesn’t really matter. It is not cold, and we are just too busy listening to and observing the cascading masses – a spectacular natural phenomenon of immense dimensions and forces.
We have heard there are sometimes unique opportunities to spot animals along the Green Trail. It is not long but twists through the dense forest. We keep looking to register even minor movements through the undergrowth. Awesome giant ants cross our path, but it is not until we are on our way back that we get a chance to view something special.
A group of children with a parent or teacher are in front of us, and they all of a sudden stop and start whispering. We catch the word ‘tapir’. A tapir is precisely what we now spot in between the bushes. It is of considerable size, a lot bigger than we thought. Calmly, it grazes, unaffected by the group of humans in the distance. Just as promptly as it emerged, it disappears again. Of course, we are thrilled to bits that we got to see it!
The next trail is the Upper Circuit, the easiest of the trails, enabling us to view the cascades from above. We find some locations along the trail where we have an excellent view of a range of enchanting falls amid unique flora. From the rim, we also have a view of the boats, providing people with a surreal experience of approaching the falling streams shockingly close. The mighty river is not for the faint-hearted!
Arriving at an open area with a stunning view of the jungle, I, all of a sudden, catch sight of a monkey climbing and jumping between the tree-tops. It moves around in the heights in the most natural way, swinging from one branch to another – probably a lot faster than it would be to climb through the rainforest on ground level. The monkeys use the tree-top highway!
On the Lower Circuit, we veritably experience being amid the falls with their powerful water drops! It is like disappearing into eternity. Whatever angle we see them from, they are awe-inspiring!
The touch of luxury at Meliá includes a reception for all guests before dinner. It is just what we need after a long day of rainforest impressions. Finding our nicest (and only!) shirt and dress at the bottom of our rucksacks, we are ready!
A company of eager waiters receive us in front of a large table with beautiful wine bottles and filled glasses on the white tablecloth. We cannot believe it. We are the ONLY guests at the reception. However, this is definitely not a problem – we pick the best sofa and then enjoy our mental relaxation with superb Argentinian wine!
In the morning, we wake up to lively bird activity in the treetops and the most lavish desayuno yet on our South America trip. We can choose between dozens of exotic fruits we have never even heard of – and everything you can dream of for breakfast. We can even try the Argentinian, traditional, healthy hot drink yerba mate, which replaces the usual coffee or tea. Served in a special cup, a gourd, with a metal straw or pipe, a bombilla, yerba mate is unique. It is remarkably different from the mate de coca I tried in Cusco two weeks ago.
After the sumptuous breakfast, we are ready for a morning hike in the jungle. We head for the Macuco Trail, a longer and deeper hike down to the river, intending to do just the first part. If we are lucky, we may spot more animals here.
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