São Martinho do Porto – Idyllic Seaside Village on the Atlantic Coast
A stay in Lisbon or Porto can easily be combined with a few days in the small seaside and fishing village São Martinho do Porto – a real gem on Portugal’s Atlantic Coast. In summer, it is popular with Portuguese families and Spanish and French tourists. However, it is a small, charming town that has retained some of its authentic identity, not as touristy as many other beach towns along the coast.
If you are not driving in a car, you can either rent a car or go by train from either Lisbon or Porto to the Portuguese coastal village.
Photo: Travel In Culture
With high expectations, we drive into São Martinho do Porto, a village with a population of around 3,000. We were here a couple of years ago and fell in love with the place, which, despite its location on the Atlantic coast, is a veritable gem, entirely sheltered by the rocky hills between the scenic bay and the vast ocean. In this way, the large, shell-shaped bay has the calmest water, probably also a few degrees warmer than the ocean on the other side. It is a pristine and popular beach – definitely among the best on the Portuguese Atlantic Coast.
Last time we stayed at the cosy Hotel Santo António da Baía, tucked away in the more local part of town behind the fire station and near the market hall – we still remember the tasty and plentiful breakfast, as well as the helpfulness of the staff. Anyway, this year, we want a different experience and have found a fully equipped apartment with a balcony right at the town square, overlooking the beach and the fishing boats.
Photo: Travel In Culture
Not surprisingly, the tide is powerful – when it’s low tide, the beach is as wide as a football field, and at high tide, the sandy beach narrows until you almost think you are at a different place. A local fisherman has positioned himself midway along the bay with his fishing rod and line thrown into the water – and his successful catch in a bucket a few metres behind. A stroll on the wide sandy beach along the bay takes us to the other side of the partly dried-up riverbed bordered by high dunes at the neighbouring village, Salir do Porto. A favourite thing to do here seems to be sand surfing down the dunes.
Photo: Travel In Culture
Photo: Travel In Culture
The northern part of the bay is the São Martinho do Porto’s picturesque harbour. Here, the small local fishing boats are neatly anchored, side by side, at high tide. At low tide, a few boats stand on the seabed. At the foot of Salir do Porto, the river flows into the ocean in a large delta, creating intricate patterns and works of art in the sand.
Photo: Travel In Culture
During the morning, the local kindergartens arrive – each kindergarten being easily recognisable by the colour of the children’s caps. There are blue, orange, and red groups, each waiting for the signal to rush into the water. Loud and bright children’s voices cut through the air on the normally tranquil beach.
Photo: Travel In Culture
The local market hall is a colourful palette of fish and shellfish. The locals come here to buy fish and groceries for supper. Two fishermen’s wives, standing side by side, present today’s catch. There is an interesting variety of salmon, tuna, squids, sardines, mussels, and many more of which we only know a few. The fisherman’s wife is eager to sell their catch to us, and she points out the fish she thinks we should choose. After a bit of communication, we end up with large appetising salmon cuts and freshly caught sardines, one of the specialities served everywhere here. As a bonus, we get an extra piece of salmon included in the purchase. She waves us over to the balance scale and shows it will come on top! A couple of hours later, the fish is sizzling in the frying pan in our kitchen and, in no time, we have a super tasty meal with a side dish of courgettes and ripe tomatoes we also found at the market.
Photo: Travel In Culture
At the end of the harbour promenade, dotted with fish restaurants, small boats, and a ton of fishing gear, we find, maybe a bit surprisingly, a pedestrian tunnel through the rocky mountain to the rough Atlantic Coast on the other side. Only when standing out there do you realise how protected São Martinho do Porto is, sheltered by the steep rocks.
- Photo: Travel In Culture
- Photo: Travel In Culture
The wind howls, and the waves repeatedly drown the thousands of black crabs that seem to live in an eldorado on the slimy boulders. Barely swept away by an extra demanding wave, the crabs return and swarm around again. The abundance of crabs is a sign that there are also millions of fish in the water – which a solitary fisherman takes advantage of. After returning through the tunnel, we feel the warm summer evening in São Martinho do Porto again.
Photo: Travel In Culture
Photo: Travel In Culture
Besides being the perfect location for beach holidays, São Martinho do Porto is also a good base for day trips to other interesting towns and noteworthy sights in the region. You can easily take a day trip to Nazaré, Caldas da Rainha, Foz do Arelho, or Óbidos with São Martinho do Porto as the point of departure.
Read next: One Day in London – See the Temple Church and Which One Do You Prefer – Coimbra or Guimarães?
São Martinho do Porto – Idyllic Seaside Village on the Atlantic Coast
Featured image of
São Martinho do Porto – Idyllic Seaside Village on the Atlantic Coast:
Travel In Culture