La Paz, Bolivia – At the Top of the World and in the Heart of the Witches’ Market
The Witches’ Market & Cholitas – La Paz, Bolivia Travel
1. Altitude in La Paz
2. Mi Teleférico – El Alto
3. The Witches’ Market
4. Basilica of San Francisco
5. Cholitas in Bolivia
6. Plaza Murillo
7. Basilica of Our Lady of Peace
8. Calle Jaén
9. Cholita Wrestling
To travel to La Paz, Bolivia, is to step into one of South America’s most vibrant and authentically traditional cities. While it is not the constitutional capital (Sucre holds that title), La Paz is the executive capital and seat of government, and for many, it feels like Bolivia’s beating heart.
The views from La Paz are nothing short of breathtaking, with the snow-capped peaks of the towering Andes forming a dramatic and ever-present backdrop. The city’s climate is a striking contrast, lying between a subtropical highland and a tundra climate due to its high altitude and the powerful Andean sun. Nights remain cold throughout the year, while days generally become pleasantly warm.
What are the top things to do in La Paz, Bolivia?
La Paz is one of the most culturally captivating places to visit in Bolivia, a destination that fascinates travellers with its unique blend of Andean tradition and modern life. Its indigenous roots continue influencing the rhythm of the city today, making it a highlight of any Bolivia travel itinerary. During our visit, we find ourselves drawn to the winding streets and vibrant local energy that make exploring La Paz such a remarkable experience. A visit to the La Paz Witches’ Market, tucked away within the city’s inner streets, offers one of the most fascinating things to do in La Paz and provides a rare opportunity to experience traditional Bolivia, gaining a deeper insight into its extraordinary native culture.
Photo: Travel In Culture
Where to stay in La Paz?
To make the most of a Bolivia travel adventure, choosing the right base in La Paz is essential. Each of these places offers something special, combining lively atmosphere and local charm, making them perfect options for exploring the city.
The risk of altitude sickness, known locally as soroche, is considerable in La Paz. With elevations ranging from around 3,700 metres (12,100 feet) in lower La Paz to 4,300 metres (14,100 feet) in El Alto, your breath will be heavily challenged when walking around in the beginning. The risk can be minimised by approaching La Paz more slowly, for example by travelling overland by bus rather than flying in. This method allows the body to adjust gradually and makes it easier to explore the Andes without being too affected by the altitude.
Once in La Paz, particularly after flying in, it is important to take things slowly and allow time for acclimatisation. We are lucky not to be too badly affected, perhaps because we take it easy and arrive by bus, slowly climbing the Andes. Many locals also recommend staying well hydrated by drinking plenty of water or enjoying coca tea, which has been practised for thousands of years and may relieve splitting headaches and other unpleasant symptoms. Chewing coca leaves or sipping the tea is the traditional native way to prevent and alleviate altitude sickness.
Cholitas in La Paz, Bolivia | Photo: Travel In Culture
2. Mi Teleférico – El Alto
La Paz sits in a canyon of the Choqueyapu River, with El Alto located just above on the Altiplano plateau, home to a significant indigenous population. Many people who travel to Bolivia or La Paz arrive first in El Alto, since El Alto International Airport serves the city. El Alto is famous for El Alto Market (also known as Feria 16 de Julio), which is a traditional Bolivian market where you can buy handicrafts, local produce, and other traditional goods. No visit to the market feels complete without tasting some Bolivian street food, whether it is a freshly baked salteña or a steaming cup of api accompanied by pastel!
Photo: Poswiecie
In 2014, La Paz introduced its impressive cable car network, Mi Teleférico, which is the longest aerial cable car system in the world. It was built to serve the La Paz and El Alto metropolitan areas, featuring 11 lines (Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, Orange, White, Sky Blue, Purple, Brown, Silver, and Gold) and more than 30 stations.
Travel More in Bolivia
Compare Bolivia with your own country:
Corruption in Bolivia
Road Safety in Bolivia
The Red, Yellow, and Purple lines link the two cities, which sit at different altitudes, with El Alto approximately 400 metres (1,300 feet) above La Paz. Until the cable cars, the cities were connected only by winding, often crowded roads, making journeys between them a veritable nightmare.
Riding Mi Teleférico is a fantastic way to see the city from above, including the stunning sunset views, while travelling quickly and conveniently between locations.
3. The Witches’ Market in La Paz
The Witches’ Market in Bolivia, La Paz | Photo: Travel In Culture
Eager to see La Paz up close, we set off on foot through the city centre. Wandering through narrow streets rich with the scent of herbs and spices, we arrive at the Mercado de las Brujas, or Witches’ Market, run by Bolivia’s traditional witch doctors, the yatiris, easily recognised by their black hats. The cobblestone lanes lie just off Calle Sagárnaga. This market is a vibrant centre of Aymara culture, offering traditional Andean handicrafts, colourful textiles, and a glimpse into the world of secret magic.
Shops overflow with all kinds of curiosities, from carved figurines to bundles of herbs, hanging from walls and ceilings. Most striking are the dried llama foetuses, often displayed by the dozen along the street. When building a new house, many Bolivians bury a llama foetus under the foundation, as it is believed to bring good fortune. This offering is made to Pachamama, Mother Earth, and is considered an act of white magic.
Baby llamas and llama foetuses are popular in The Witches’ Market in La Paz | Photo: Travel In Culture
We wander through the La Paz Witches’ Market, constantly astonished by what we see. A wide range of dried products is for sale here, alongside many other curious objects, including magic amulets, items inspired by Inca mythology, and spell kits. It is not immediately obvious what the intended use of these peculiar and mystical items is, but the vast majority are connected to offerings for luck, love, and health.
Black magic intended to curse or harm someone is said to exist here as well. Spell boxes, amulets, mystic figures, owl feathers, stones, dried frogs and snakes, pink candies, and an array of powders with supposed supernatural power are all displayed alongside more tourist-friendly handcrafted goods, such as woven bags, alpaca sweaters, ceramics, and dolls in traditional indigenous style. For us, exploring this unique market is one of the most captivating things we do in La Paz on our travel through Bolivia.
Travel Guide to Bolivia: Powders, amulets & magic at the Witches’ Market in La Paz
The Witches’ Market in La Paz, Bolivia | Photo: Travel In Culture
The spiritual world is strongly represented in shops densely packed with medicinal plants and herbs used in Aymara rituals. Here, you can find whatever is needed to cast spells against people or spirits. Symbols from Incan mythology, the puma, the snake, and the condor, are also present, representing power, wisdom, and travel. All these elements make the market a fascinating place to experience Aymara traditions and beliefs and can be seen as part of the cultural heritage of the Incas.
-
- Maybe you can find …
-
- something to prevent altitude sickness.
As we look along the street lined with little shops, we are struck by the astonishing mix of magical items and remedies at the La Paz Witches’ Market. Whatever illness or misfortune you may face, there are potions and cures available, including coca leaves and other remedies for altitude sickness. Fortune-telling is also offered for those who dare to glimpse into the future.
Although the majority of Bolivians are Catholics, many still observe ancient traditions. Locals often have no hesitation in consulting fortune-tellers or the characteristic witch doctors, the yatiris, blending modern life with enduring spiritual beliefs.
4. Basilica of San Francisco
Photo: Travel In Culture
The square in front of the striking Basilica of San Francisco is Plaza San Francisco, also known as Plaza Mayor de San Francisco, just around the corner from the famous La Paz Witches’ Market. The square buzzes with life and is one of the most popular meeting spots in the city centre, making it an ideal place for people-watching. From the steps, we watch everyday life unfold, with a lively mix of indigenous La Paz locals and visitors from beyond Bolivia. Spending time here is among the most charming things we get to do in La Paz!
Basilica of San Francisco | Photo: Travel In Culture
The basilica building is an Andean gold-leaf decorated Baroque church, originally constructed in 1547 as a Franciscan convent dedicated to St Francisco of Assisi. Today, it stands as the oldest church in the city.
Unfortunately, in 1610, the massive structure collapsed under the weight of a disastrous snowfall, and it was not rebuilt until several centuries later.
Just steps from the Basilica of San Francisco in La Paz, the Museo San Francisco offers a fascinating journey into the rich and intricate history of the Franciscan order in Bolivia.
5. Cholitas in Bolivia
We admire the traditionally dressed Bolivian Aymara women with their long skirts, brightly coloured shawls and bowler hats in front of the Basílica de San Francisco. The women dressed in this vivid Andean highland style are known as cholas, or in diminutive form cholitas, in Bolivian Spanish. We see women carrying their children, food or whatever they need on their backs, wrapped in an aguayo, a colourfully striped woven sling.
One of the city’s cholitas wraps her child in an aguayo, a brightly coloured woven cloth typical of Bolivia.
Photo: Travel In Culture
As we stroll around, we see beautiful cholitas everywhere, adding colour and character to the streets. Aymara women braid their hair into two plaits that reach their hips (traditionally, the men wear only one). These braids are tied with a woollen adornment called a tullma, which forms part of the chola dress together with wide layered skirts, embroidered shawls and sometimes a bowler hat. This distinctive wardrobe is unique to the Aymara people.
Photo: Travel In Culture
What truly surprises us is how naturally this long-established culture blends into modern life. Indigenous descendants and cholitas in Bolivia continue their customs even within a bustling, cosmopolitan city. Many women embrace modern conveniences while still preserving the grace and authenticity of their heritage, and the younger generation seems particularly skilled at balancing ancestral tradition with contemporary trends. Girls often grow up in households where wide layered skirts and embroidered shawls are worn daily, and many choose to carry this style forward.
In Bolivia, cholitas move through the city in full traditional dress, blending heritage with modern life.
Chola fashion, dating back to the Spanish colonial era of the 1700s, remains very much alive. In fact, it is experiencing a revival, with young women wearing the traditional dress with pride and adapting it to different occasions.
Photo: Travel In Culture
The earthy spirit of Andean culture is visible everywhere in La Paz. It is genuinely inspiring to see Aymara women uphold their identity, even though many face challenges such as limited educational opportunities and persistent poverty.
6. Plaza Murillo
Plaza Murillo.
A short walk east of Plaza San Francisco brings us to Plaza Murillo, a must-see for anyone travelling to La Paz. This central square, located in the old town near Socabaya Street, offers a fascinating glimpse into the city’s history and culture. It has long been the setting for major political and revolutionary events in Bolivia, most notably in 1946, 1952 and 2002. During the 1946 uprising, the turmoil even led to a political figure being hanged from one of the lampposts, a stark reminder of the square’s turbulent past.
Originally designed in 1558 as part of a rectilinear city grid by Juan Gutiérrez Paniagua, the square quickly became surrounded by colonial buildings, including government offices, a jail, the Royal Treasury, the Cathedral, and the Bishop’s Residence.
Over time, the square’s name has changed to reflect Bolivia’s history. It was first Plaza Mayor, then Plaza de Armas during the colonial period, and later Plaza 16 de Julio after independence. Today, it is called Plaza Murillo, in honour of Pedro Murillo, a Bolivian leader hanged by Spanish troops in 1810 during the independence revolt. Standing here, it is easy to feel the layers of history and imagine the events that shaped La Paz and Bolivia.
A highlight of the square is the National Congress of Bolivia, notable for its famous counterclockwise clock | Photo: Travel In Culture
Plaza Murillo is often alive with pigeons and people, some crossing the square, others taking a moment to relax on the benches and watch the world go by.
One of the most striking sights is the building of the National Congress of Bolivia, famous for its clock that runs counterclockwise!
7. Basilica of Our Lady of Peace
Basilica of Our Lady of Peace.
The Basilica of Our Lady of Peace at the Plaza Murillo is also known as La Paz Cathedral. One of the top things to do when travelling in La Paz is to visit this remarkable cathedral in Bolivia. The current building is a fine neoclassical structure from 1835, featuring several baroque elements.
In 1989, two lateral towers were added to La Paz Cathedral, coinciding with Pope John Paul II’s travel to Bolivia.
Don’t miss La Paz’s impressive Basilica – seeing it for yourself is a highlight of any Bolivia travel itinerary.
8. Calle Jaén
Picturesque Calle Jaén in La Paz.
We continue northwest until we reach the tranquil, colonial-style street Calle Jaén.
The cobblestone street Calle Jaén is one of the finest and best-preserved examples of colonial architecture in La Paz, lined with charming pastel-coloured buildings. The street is named after the patriot Apolinar Jaén, born in 1776, who worked in the trade of coca leaves. He later formed a rebel army of slaves, Creoles and natives, taking part in several battles until he was defeated and executed in 1810.
Strolling past the colourful houses on Calle Jaén, we marvel at the architectural details, making it one of the most rewarding things to do in La Paz for architecture enthusiasts. Calle Jaén is truly a gem in La Paz and a must for anyone looking for authentic experiences while travelling here. The street is also home to some excellent museums related to Bolivia’s history: Museo de Metales Preciosos Precolombinos, the Museo del Litoral Boliviano, and Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas. We also consider visiting the Museo Nacional de Arte and the Museo de la Coca to get a deeper sense of Bolivian art and culture.
In Bolivia, cholitas proudly preserve their traditional dress.
9. Cholitas Wrestling in Bolivia
Finally, travelling to La Paz can also include watching a cholita wrestling show. Cholitas are indigenous Bolivian women in traditional clothing, wearing a skirt, shawl, and bowler hat. After years of discrimination, they have in recent times gained recognition in society and take pride in their unique cultural heritage.
As we understand it, the women probably began practising the sport for many reasons, including empowerment and gaining greater acceptance in society. This has created a one-of-a-kind blend of sport and entertainment, unlike anything else in Bolivia.
Watching a cholita wrestling show is not just fun, it is a striking way to see how Bolivian culture embraces tradition, resilience, and creativity. When travelling to La Paz, watching a cholita wrestling show is a highly recommended activity and one of the most unique things to do in the city.
More Information on Bolivia Travel
If you want an exceptional nature experience, take a trip by minibus out to Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley), 10–12 km outside La Paz – a surreal landscape of rock formations and spectacular scenic beauty.
Read more about travelling from Cusco to La Paz: Take the Peru Hope Bus from Cusco to Bolivia and discover the floating islands on the border between Bolivia and Peru: Explore the Lake Titicaca Floating Islands
Witches’ Market & Cholitas – Travel Guide to La Paz, Bolivia
Featured image of
The Witches’ Market & Cholitas – Travel Guide to La Paz, Bolivia:
Travel In Culture
