Try the Witches’ Market
La Paz Bolivia Travel Guide
1. Mi Teleférico
2. The Witches’ Market
3. Basilica of San Francisco
4. Plaza Murillo
5. Basilica of Our Lady of Peace
6. Calle Jaén
7. El Alto
8. Cholita wrestling
To travel to La Paz, Bolivia, is to arrive in one of the most native and traditional cities on the South American continent. Although La Paz is not the constitutional capital (Sucre is!), it is the executive capital and seat of government and, by many people, is regarded as the major city in Bolivia!
One of the culturally most captivating cities to travel to (in Bolivia) is La Paz – due to its unique cultural heritage and indigenous roots still influencing present-day life. In particular, a visit to The Witches’ Market, imperceptibly woven into the inner streets of La Paz, is an opportunity to explore traditional Bolivia and get insight into the country’s outstanding native culture.
The risk of altitude sickness, or soroche in Latin American Spanish, can be minimised by approaching the La Paz altitude in the ‘slow’ way – by bus – instead of flying in. In this way, you will probably be able to climb the Andes Mountains without being too much affected.
Once in La Paz, especially when flying in, take it easy in order to acclimatise. Since lack of sufficient oxygen is the cause of soroche, it is important to keep the need for oxygen down during the first couple of days at high altitude. Moreover, you will also need to ensure that you are sufficiently hydrated by drinking a LOT of water. Additionally, you may follow the locals’ advice on drinking coca tea!
Photo: Poswiecie / Pixabay
In 2014, La Paz got its opportune cable car network Mi Teleférico, the longest aerial cable car system in the world. It was constructed to serve the La Paz and El Alto metropolitan areas with 11 lines (Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, Orange, White, Sky Blue, Purple, Brown, Silver and Gold) and more than 30 stations.
The Red, Yellow, and Purple lines link the two cities, La Paz and El Alto, situated at two different altitudes, El Alto at 400 m (1,300 ft) above La Paz. It means that they, until recently, have been connected only by winding, crowded roads – often making the trip between them a veritable nightmare.
To use Mi Teleférico is a great way to explore La Paz from the air and get from one location to another relatively conveniently and fast. Get information about the lines.
Corruption Bolivia/your country
Road safety Bolivia/your country
The Witches’ Market, La Paz | Photo: Travel In Culture
Following the narrow streets with a whirl of activity, you will sooner or later arrive at the Mercado de las Brujas, The Witches’ Market run by Bolivia’s witch doctors, yatiris, officially wearing black hats. The cobblestone lanes are just off Calle Sagárnaga. It is a hotspot for the Aymara culture with traditional Andean handicraft products as well as for secret magic.
All kinds of knick-knacks are available, hanging down the shop fronts. Most striking are the dried llama foetuses and baby llamas, which appear by the dozen along the street. Whenever the Bolivians build a new house, they bury a llama foetus under the foundation since it is said to bring good luck. It is a sacrifice to the goddess Pachamama, Mother Earth, and these acts are considered white magic.
Photo: Travel In Culture
Baby llamas and llama foetuses are popular in The Witches’ Market in La Paz | Photo: Travel In Culture
A range of dried products are for sale here, among many other objects such as magic amulets, Inca mythology and spells. It is not immediately obvious what the intended use of these peculiar and magic items is. The vast majority are related to offerings for luck, love and health.
However, black magic to curse or destroy someone else is said to exist here, too. Spell boxes, amulets, mystic figures, owl feathers, stones, dried frogs as well as snakes, pink candies and loads of powders with supernatural power are all displayed together with tourist-appealing handcrafted goods such as woven bags, alpaca sweaters, ceramics and indigenous-looking dolls.
Powders, amulets and magic
Photo: Travel In Culture
The spiritual world is well represented in the shops densely stuffed with medical plants and herbs for rituals belonging to the Aymara universe. You can find whatever is needed to cast a spell against people or spirits. The three animals from the Incan mythology, the puma, the snake and the condor, are also present, symbols of power, wisdom and travel. All these elements make the market a fascinating place to get a feel for Aymara traditions and beliefs. It can be seen as a cultural heritage of the Incas.
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- Maybe you can find …
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- something to prevent altitude sickness.
It is a fascinating and astonishing mixture of hocus pocus items. Whatever illness or bad conditions you may suffer, there are remedies to cure it here. Of course, this includes coca leaves and other remedies against altitude sickness! Another service provided is fortune-telling, in case you dare and wish to look into the future.
Even if the vast majority of the Bolivians are Catholics, they still follow old traditions and creeds to a large extent. Generally, the locals in Bolivia have no hesitation in believing in fortune-tellers or the characteristic La Paz witch doctors, the yatiris.
Photo: Travel In Culture
The square in front of the impressive Basilica of San Francisco is Plaza San Francisco (or Plaza Mayor de San Francisco), which is just around the corner from The Witches’ Market. It is a popular meeting place in the centre of La Paz – and the perfect place for people-watching! Sit on the stairs and observe everyday life in La Paz in the beautiful square. It is a fine blend of indigenous La Paz and visitors from near and far.
Basilica of San Francisco | Photo: Travel In Culture
The construction is an Andean gold-leaf decorated baroque church, constructed in 1547 as a Franciscan convent dedicated to St Francisco of Assisi. Today, it is the oldest church in the city of La Paz.
Unfortunately, in 1610, the massive structure collapsed due to a disastrous snowfall, and the church was not rebuilt until a few hundred years later.
Close to the Basilica of San Francisco, you will find the Museo San Francisco, telling the intricate history of the Franciscan order in Bolivia.
Plaza Murillo | Photo: Travel In Culture
A few streets further to the east, you will arrive at the Plaza Murillo.
The Plaza Murillo is the central square in La Paz, in the old town near Socabaya Street. It has been the focal site for various political revolutionary battles in Bolivia – most recently in 1946, 1952 and 2002. In the 1946 conflict, there was even a hanging from one of the lampposts here!
Originally, in 1558, the square was designed as part of a rectilinear grid by Juan Gutiérrez Paniagua, and soon colonial buildings appeared, including the government building housing a jail, the Royal Treasury, the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Residence.
The Plaza was at the beginning named the Plaza Mayor, but was during the colonial period renamed Plaza de Armas. Later, after the independence, the name changed to Plaza 16 de Julio. The square bears its current name Plaza Murillo after Pedro Murillo, a Bolivian leader hanged by the Spanish troops in 1810 in the independence revolt.
National Congress of Bolivia with a counterclockwise clock | Photo: Travel In Culture
The Plaza Murillo is often full of pigeons and people crossing it – or chilling on the benches for a while!
Really spectacular is the building of the National Congress of Bolivia, which has a clock running counterclockwise!
Basilica of Our Lady of Peace | Photo: Travel In Culture
The Basilica of Our Lady of Peace at the Plaza Murillo is also known as La Paz Cathedral. The current cathedral is a fine neoclassical cathedral from 1835, which features a certain number of baroque elements.
In 1989, two lateral towers were added to La Paz Cathedral, an event which precisely coincided with Pope John Paul II’s arrival in Bolivia.
Do enter the impressive Basilica to see the wonder for yourself!
Picturesque Calle Jaén in La Paz | Photo: Travel In Culture
Continue northwest until you reach Calle Jaén.
The cobblestone street Calle Jaén is a unique and well-preserved example of the colonial building style and era in La Paz. The street name refers to the patriot Apolinar Jaén, who was born in 1776 – and, during his life, was engaged in the trade of coca leaves.
Go for a stroll along the colourful houses in the street and notice all the architectural details. The street is also home to some excellent museums related to Bolivia’s history: Museo de Metales Preciosos Precolombinos, the Museo del Litoral Boliviano and Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas. Calle Jaén is a true gem in La Paz!
La Paz is in a canyon of the Choqueyapu River. Another city right above La Paz on the Altiplano plateau is El Alto. El Alto has a significant indigenous population.
Many visitors who travel to Bolivia / La Paz arrive at and get acquainted with El Alto before La Paz since the airport serving La Paz is El Alto International Airport.
Travel to La Paz, Bolivia | Photo: 213852 / Pixabay
There is a considerable risk of suffering from altitude sickness here. With a span from about 3,700 metres (12,100 feet) in lower La Paz to 4,300 metres (14,100 feet) in El Alto, your breath is massively challenged in the beginning when walking around.
Chewing coca leaves or drinking the coca tea offered everywhere may relieve a splitting headache and other unpleasant symptoms. It has been practised for thousands of years and is the native way to overcome/prevent altitude sickness.
Bolivian cholita with beautiful braids | Photo: Travel In Culture
Watch a cholita wrestling show in La Paz.
Cholitas are indigenous Bolivian women in traditional clothing, wearing a skirt, shawl, and a bowler hat. After some years of discrimination, the cholitas have, in recent years, gained recognition in society. Today, they are again proud of their unique cultural heritage.
In this century, it has become common for the cholitas to perform in wrestling shows, battling in the ring, where they show their acrobatic stunts, kicks and punches. They started practising the sport to acquire more self-confidence, make new friends, and enjoy a new kind of power – along with being more accepted in society. It created an unparalleled entertainment scene in Bolivia.
Read more about cholitas in Bolivia and La Paz: How to be cool and chill cholitas in Bolivia
See: How to Travel Light
‘Witches’ Market – Travel Guide to La Paz, Bolivia’
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Witches’ Market Travel Guide to La Paz Bolivia
