La Camargue is the natural region south of Arles in France, created by the Rhône delta at the Mediterranean Sea. Despite being a region of marshlands, lakes and brine lagoons or étangs, a few towns have developed in La Camargue. Arles, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rhône and Aigues-Mortes are all towns that have both a fascinating history and their traditions linked to the vast natural region here in the southwestern corner of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur in the South of France.

Ever since Cistercian and Benedictine monks settled in the region in the Middle Ages, the attractive Camargue resources have been exploited. In the 16th and 17th centuries, wealthy landlords from Arles came to establish themselves here.

Photo: Association Posidonia / Pixabay

Over time, it became clear that dikes were needed to protect the properties from flooding, and eventually, in 1858, the digue à la mer was constructed. That justified a transformation of the northern Camargue region into agricultural land with crops like grapes, rice and other cereals.

At the seashore, the production of salt became massive.

We arrive at Arles in the South of France, a city packed with history from nearly all times.

Arles was already in the 6th century BC inhabited by the Greek-Phoenicians, at that time named ‘Theline’. The name changed again when the Celtic Saluvii renamed it ‘Arelate’. Later, it came under Roman rule and soon became a flourishing small town in the South of France.

Julius Caesar annexed Arles to his expanding empire in the 1st century AD and made it the capital of the Roman Provence. The Romans ingeniously exploited the Rhône and dug a canal to the Mediterranean Sea, giving Arles the status of a port town.

The amphitheatre in Arles has a capacity of 14,000 spectators | Photo: Snail Makes Art / Pixabay

At that time, a huge amphitheatre was constructed here in the small French town, which today is still a top sight and, at the same time, a favoured bullring with a capacity of 14,000 spectators. Of course, a trip to Arles includes visiting the amphitheatre, Les Arènes, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Unfortunately, when the Roman Empire collapsed during the 5th century, Arles lost part of its importance and sadly went into decline.

In the following centuries, invasions by peoples such as Visigoths and Barbarians occurred.

Arles’s history in the Middle Ages is both comprehensive and detailed, but in 1521, Arles became an integrated part of France.

Other must-see ruins in Arles include the thermal baths of Constantine, the Théâtre Antique, the Cloister of Saint Trophime and the Roman Necropolis of Alyscamps.

Les Arènes, the amphitheatre in Arles, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site – and still being used | Photo: Neil Gibbons / Pixabay

Arles is a fascinating town of medieval character, full of ancient culture and charming spots. Therefore, it is no surprise that the impressionist Van Gogh found great inspiration for his masterpieces here.

Besides being an ancient town, Arles is also the ’capital’ of the Camargue, and today, many visitors use Arles as their convenient base and a gateway in the South of France to explore the extraordinary natural region formed by the Rhône delta.

The next day, we leave Arles to begin our journey into the Camargue in the département of Bouches-du-Rhône. Driving into the marshlands, we enjoy the stunning views of untouched nature, canals and channels.

In the beginning, we drive across vineyards and rice fields. A wide variety of rice species grow in the spectacular paddy fields, including long grain, round, black, and the famous red Camargue rice. The rice grows in water from the intricate network of canals with a connection to the Rhône. It is a whole science to manage the water level with pumps and floodgates – based on the temperature and the rice growth stage.

Flocks of elegant pink flamingos gather around and inside the brine lagoons | Photo: Gayulo / Pixabay

Rice cultivation was initiated in the Camargue around 1600. Today, there are 10,000 hectares of rice grown here in the South of France, and the vast majority is exported all over the world.

Brine lagoons or étangs are dispersed in the marshes, providing the unique Camargue wildlife with an outstanding habitat. It is a haven for bird species of great diversity – there are more than 400 species – and the area around the Étang de Vaccarès is a unique protected area, which in recent years has been incorporated into the Parc naturel régional de Camargue.

You never know where the flamingos are in the area, but with a little luck, you will catch sight of the tall, majestic birds. We are lucky, as we, all of a sudden, spot a spectacular flock in one of the lakes near the road.

The Camargue is also home to horses and cattle. The famous Camargue horses are ridden by so-called gardians (cowboys), who rear cattle for local bullfights and for export to Spain. The Camargue horse is not very large, only about 1.50 m (5 ft) tall. It thrives in the Camargue as it has adapted to the marshy terrain. As young, it is brown, but, over time, it gradually turns white.

The local cowboys, gardians, rear cattle and horses in the Camargue | Jacqueline Macou / Pixabay

The Camargue bulls used for bullfighting in southern France are the black bulls Raço di Biòu or Race de Combat, both bred here in the region with a status as “Taureau de Camargue”.

While driving around, we encounter both trotting horses and fascinating bulls.

Wild white horses are unique to the Camargue. Especially on the way down to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, there are chances to spot a herd roaming around. Even better if you go on horseback across the salt marshes. That will improve your chances of viewing the native horse breed.

Wild horses can be spotted all over La Carmargue, France | Photo: TeeFarm / Pixabay

Rice paddies flank the road down to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

The small community of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a unique Camargue town with just a few thousand permanent residents. However, it kind of explodes in summer when visitors flock to experience the natural beauties on the fringe of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur in the South of France. Its principal industry is tourism, but the extraordinary Camargue horses and cattle are also raised here.

According to the legend, around 45 AD, Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome and Mary of Cleopas arrived at this location. They were received by Saint Sarah (also known as Sarah the Black), who offered to serve them. After they died, they were all buried in the oratory they had devoted their lives to build here. Subsequently, this site became a place of pilgrimage.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is today a popular seaside town in the South of France | Photo: Hans Braxmeier / Pixabay

The current church, the Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer, was built on the same site in the 9th century – and still stands! From the tower, the views over the landscape and seascape are panoramic.

Twice a year, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is the destination and focal point of Romani pilgrimages. The Gypsies’ recurring pilgrimages take place each year on May 24th and 25th for the festival of Mary of Cleopas and the veneration of Saint Sarah – and at the end of October for Mary Salome.

There is plenty to do in picturesque Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer: enjoy the beach, go birdwatching and discover pink flamingos or awesome herons. You can also take a jeep or a quad tour into the marshes, go hiking, do kitesurfing or windsurfing – or spoil yourself by having fresh fish and seafood in one of the plentiful restaurants.

Aigues-Mortes has impressive ramparts dating back to 1240, built by King Louis IX | Photo: Jacqueline Macou / Pixabay

Our last stop is Aigues-Mortes, which means ‘dead waters’. The site is the location of a massive salt production, and the Salins du Midi salt company in Aigues-Mortes produces 500,000 tons of salt annually. Salt exists in the soil here, and the ponds in the area, combined with the high level of evaporation, make the place ideal for sea salt extraction.

The salt has been exploited for hundreds of years here, with production originally run by monks, and has been a continuous production ever since. The snow-white piles of salt are a most impressive sight when you approach the old medieval Languedoc town of Aigues-Mortes located at the far western end of the region in the Petite Camargue within the département of Gard, Occitanie (formerly Languedoc-Roussillon).

Aigues-Mortes and its ‘dead waters’ is the site of a gigantic salt production | Photo: Jacqueline Macou / Pixabay

Aigues-Mortes is famous for its old fortress and massive rectangular medieval walls with about 20 circular towers protecting the town. The remote fortress town was founded by Louis IX in 1240 and was intended as a centre for trade with the East and as a rallying point for crusades. A harbour here would make him independent of the Roman Emperor Frederick II, who reigned over Provence at the time, and the King James I of Aragon, who reigned over the land between Montpellier and Catalonia.

It was the perfect lagoon to harbour the boats gathering before the journey to the Promised Land. The Pope had notably appointed the European kings to take back Jerusalem. Therefore, Louis IX soon found himself as the leader of this expedition, and he chose Aigues-Mortes as the gathering point.

Canals were established in the marshes surrounding the small town since the fleet would need to be able to depart from there. Still today, the canals are some of the arteries in town, with the most lively boat traffic.

 
Aigues-Mortes is a charming town of medieval character behind the ramparts on the other side of the moat. You can walk the 1,634-metre (1 mile) long walls or explore the grid of streets with an authentic medieval atmosphere inside the ramparts. Bars and restaurants are abundant, aligned to the medieval style, as well as numerous tourist shops, providing you with associations to the Crusades and the Knights Templar.

The community behind the walls and the bastions have been tremendously well protected against enemies. At some point in time, the town served as a prison for the Templars – and much later, in the 15th century, the Tour de Constance was used to imprison the Protestant Huguenots, mostly women!

An interesting fact is that Aigues-Mortes originally was built as a port on the coast, but since the coastline has moved outwards due to earth deposits caused by the delta, it is now approximately 5 km (3 miles) inland.

After our stay in Aigues-Mortes, we continue our trip and leave the Camargue via the picturesque resort Grau-du-Roi in the Mediterranean.

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