The Tuscan town of Lucca is a more peaceful and tranquil place than its more populous counterpart, Florence. It is easier to find a quiet corner here and enjoy a moment alone, sensing the breath of history. Only in high season and during the two annual festivals, the summer festival in July and the Lucca Comics & Games in autumn, will the small encircled town be crowded.

The name Lucca has a Celtic-Ligurian origin, ‘Luk’, which means marshland.

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Lucca has played a significant role in the history. The Tuscan town became a Roman colony around 180 BC, and it served as a meeting place for Julius Caesar, Pompey and Crassus, the political alliance known as the First Triumvirate. In 56 BC, they split the Roman provinces among the three of them precisely in Lucca at the Lucca Conference.

At some point in time, though, the future existence of Lucca seemed uncertain. Nevertheless, the city recovered during the 4th and 5th centuries and regained its position, with the restoration of the city walls.

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The heart of the city is the still-existing oval plaza, the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, in the middle of the intricate pattern of encircling maze-like streets surrounding it.

During the 1st century, under Emperor Claudius, the Roman amphitheatre, shaped as an ellipse, was initiated. During the centuries to come, it had many functions – from the scene of reckless gladiator fights and entertaining spectacles to a location for a powder magazine, a salt store and a site for the local market – besides being the natural location of local assemblies.

 
With all this in mind, it is fantastic to explore the oval square flanked by picturesque facades in varying shades of yellow, orange and cream. The place abounds with small cafés and restaurants serving local specialities and fine Tuscan win, a gem of a plaza in the old town!

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One of the top basilicas in Lucca dating back to Roman times is the San Michele in Foro – at the old Tuscan town market (in foro is the Latin term for ‘in the market’). The current church in Romanesque and Gothic styles was initiated during the 11th century, but the original church was founded before the year 800. The campanile is magnificent, with a façade featuring blind arcades, sculptures and ingenious columns, notably all different. The summit is adorned with a statue of the Archangel, St. Michael. Moreover, the basilica holds a Madonna statue salutis portus.

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When strolling around in Lucca, you will notice a considerable number of towers scattered across the town. They and the adjoining villas date to between the 12th and 16th centuries. Wealthy, influential Tuscan families in town built impressive towers to manifest their importance.

Despite repeated clashes with the people of Pisa and other powerful, noble families, Lucca managed to survive economically and politically.

Throughout the years, the city stood under different rules and controls and alternately became an independent republic and a duchy. Lucca remained an independent republic for nearly 500 years. During the 1400s, it developed from an ancient city of medieval towers into an enclosed city encircled by the same town walls that today still stand.

Photo: Travel In Culture

Photo: Travel In Culture

One of the funny things you can do in Lucca is to take a tour of the old town on top of the town walls. Do like the locals: rent a bicycle to do the 4 km (2.5 miles) stretch of walkway on the rampart encircling the town. Look out above the mazy town rooftops to view the surrounding Tuscan hillsides.

Also, in the more recent centuries, Lucca has been a historical focal point. In 1799, Napoleon’s troops invaded the Tuscan town, and it received the status of a Principality. Later, in 1815, Lucca came under the control of Maria Luisa of Bourbon for some years. Her son, Charles of Bourbon, eventually handed Lucca over to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in 1847, ending the city’s independence. With the unification of Italy in 1861, Lucca finally became part of the unified country Italy.

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The rich history is reflected in the number of historical structures spanning the old town. Lucca is also known as the city of a hundred churches – referring to the vast number of churches dispersed in the streets. Nearly every street corner features spectacular buildings. Among the masterpieces are the Duomo – the San Martino Cathedral and the San Michele in Foro.

The Duomo, the Cathedral in Pisan style, is a true jewel. It is from the 11th century with a significant 14th-century Renaissance redesign. A splendid bell tower and a lavish marble façade of red, green and white marble adorn the Cathedral.  As contributions in a design competition, all columns on the façade were created in different styles. The Cathedral also holds the famous small shrine containing the Holy Face of Lucca or Volto Santo di Lucca in Italian.

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Experiencing Lucca in this setting of unique architecture covering both the traces of the ancient Roman amphitheatre in the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, the glorious churches, as well as the quaint towers of more recent date, you will lose your heart to the Tuscan picturesque town! Sit down in one of the numerous cafés or restaurants and try an Italian espresso, the flavour of a glass of Chianti or an authentic Tuscan meal – and sense the ambience of historic Lucca.

Enjoy Lucca – a real gem in Tuscany! Combine it with a trip to Florence or Siena.

Read next: San Gimignano – Italy’s ancient skyline

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