We have cheated a bit since we haven’t walked the entire pilgrim route. We have set out for only a part of the Portuguese Camino, ending at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. Following the yellow arrows, we visited the church Igreja de Santa Marinha de Arcozelo, where we witnessed a traditional baptism. We have walked along cobblestone paths flanked by vines and stone walls, past agricultural fields, a small fish farm, enticing orchards and lush vineyards in the Labruja Valley. Occasionally, a rippling waterfall has caught our attention among pines and eucalyptuses.

Lush forest with a small waterfall | Photo: Travel In Culture

I say hello to the smiling woman energetically digging up potatoes a few metres from the trail. Otherwise, the only contact along the route has been the occasional ’hola’ to the pilgrims with walking sticks and wide-brimmed sunhats we sporadically have met in the opposite direction – probably on their way to the Fatima shrine.

People have walked this same Jacobean itinerary for hundreds of years to reach Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. The Camino Francés from St. Jean-Pied-du-Port (769 km or 478 miles) is, by far, the most popular. However, regardless of Camino, the goal is the same for everyone: to arrive in Santiago de Compostela to participate in the cathedral mass.

Yellow arrows indicate the way along the Camino Portugués | Photo: Travel In Culture

The history goes back to the apostle James (Saint James is also Santiago), who went to the northwesternmost corner of Spain to convert people to Christianity. It was by the Romans named Finis Terrae – denoting the ‘end of the world’. Back home, he was later tortured to death by Herodes Agrippa and denied burial in Palestine. His disciples brought him back to Galicia in Spain by boat and buried him in a secret place in the Roman province’s capital, Iria Flavia.

Not until 813, when a hermit observed a sudden flash, were the memories of his existence returned to the people. The place was called the ‘field of the star’ or Campus Stellae in Latin. Subsequently, it was translated into Compostela. That led to the rediscovery of James’ tomb. King Alphonse II then declared Saint James a patron. According to the sources, Saint James performed many miracles, and, little by little, pilgrims began to follow the way to Santiago de Compostela.

We come across vineyards and farmland along the trail | Photo: Travel In Culture

Ever since, not just hundreds or thousands of people take a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral to see the shrine of Saint James’ earthly remains, but around 1,5 million pilgrims arrive annually! Whether you have followed the Camino Francés, the Camino Portugués, the Camino Inglés or some other of the numerous caminos, you will end up here in Santiago de Compostela.

All means of transport count when on the pilgrimage to the north-western part of the Iberian Peninsula. We do, though, mostly see wanderers with rucksacks and walking sticks in the streets of Santiago.

The symbol of the pilgrimage is the scallop shell. Saint James is depicted with this shell. Traditionally, such a Saint Jacob’s shell was the ultimate proof that you had reached the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral – or even the Finisterre, where you could easily collect these shells at the coast. Pilgrims returned to their home countries with the scallop shells (often attached to their walking sticks, rucksacks or hats) as visible proof that they had attained their goal. When a pilgrim died back home, the shell was, sometimes, buried with him!

Photo: Travel In Culture

Photo: Travel In Culture

After arriving in Santiago de Compostela, I spot the scallop shells everywhere in the streets and the small shops. The Saint Jacob’s or Saint James shells, cast in the pavement everywhere, show the way to the goal: Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. Over time, the town has turned the shells and other pilgrim-related souvenirs into a profitable business.

We will be staying in the Albergue Seminario Menor, which since 2011 has been available accommodation for pilgrims. The impressive monastery school stands on a hilltop with a magnificent view of the town.

On the stairs and in the dining hall, we come across quite a few young Spanish people who have walked the long Camino and been on the modern and, at the same time classic, grand tour through the landscape. Moreover, in Seminario Menor, we encounter pilgrims from all four corners of the world – and of all ages! It cannot be more international and diversified than this, and the atmosphere is terrific!

 
I also meet fellow travellers in the dormitories, where broad windows allow for the most breathtaking view, and in the spacious corridors filled with the newcomers’ laundry hanging to dry.

The enormous basement kitchen functions as the dining hall as well. When cooking with everyone else in the open kitchen here, I get pleasant flashbacks to my college time. Seminario Menor even has a small shop with a selection of basic ingredients and wine. A couple of onions, ripe tomatoes, garlic, sausages and rice… and our pot simmers until ready.

Albergue Seminario Menor is beautifully located on a hilltop | Photo: Travel In Culture

The next day, we visit Santiago de Compostela Cathedral and a couple of other churches and monasteries. The crowds in the streets are noticeably in high spirits. We spot all kinds of people, from conventional tourists to nuns dressed in black and monks in brown robes. They all discretely blend in with the backpack-loaded pilgrims who have a well-deserved rest on the steps.

It is Sunday, and we attend the Sunday mass in the Cathedral, where the priests, particularly, speak to the large number of pilgrims. This is the highlight for many of the attendees after the long and exhausting walk to Santiago de Compostela.

 
In addition to the scallop shells, which symbolise the pilgrimage, and a bunch of other souvenirs, the speciality Tarta de Santiago is on display in the windows of the pastries. As we are not far from the coast, the restaurants abound with seafood. We get tempted by the octopus or pulpo they serve at a table outside and cannot refrain from taking a seat to try it here! It is delicious!

Afterwards, we stroll among the most impressive church constructions and monasteries of religious discipline intricately woven into the university buildings.

Albergue Seminario Menor in Santiago de Compostela is a scenic pilgrim accommodation | Photo: Travel In Culture

At the end of the day, back in Seminario Menor, we finally get time to process all impressions in the peaceful surroundings. We have opted for the modest single rooms, once the religious scholars’ humble monastery cells, instead of the dormitory. The room style is appropriately simple, with just a bed, a chair, a table and nothing else to disturb your mind and thoughts. It is the perfect place for reflection if that is what you seek!

The view of the monastery is fantastic from my room. Contrary to what I initially suspected, it is not at all tedious to stay in each of our plain monastery cells. I must admit it is precisely what I need after the wealth of impressions we have been exposed to during the day. It is the epitome of peace and tranquillity – and a true pleasure to enjoy a thoughtful moment alone here. Seminario Menor is a real find!

Read next: Things to Do in Barcelona in 5 Days and Dalí Museum in Figueres

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