Cool Colonial Style in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
Arriving by ferry from Buenos Aires in Argentina, we follow the crowd of passengers out of the ferry terminal which at the same time is an efficient access point to Uruguay. Hundreds of visitors arrive here daily to experience the genuine ambience in the old cobblestone streets. Several ferry boat lines with slightly different offers serve the crossing to Uruguay: Seacat Colonia, Buquebus and Colonia Express.
We have come to the old colonial-style town on a day trip, taking advantage of easy access by ferry to the picturesque site with UNESCO World Heritage status. Colonia del Sacramento is the oldest town in Uruguay and is renowned for its outstanding colonial architecture. The one-hour short ferry ride makes the location an attractive destination as a day trip from Argentina.
It surprises us a little that the arriving troop almost immediately dissolves, disappearing into waiting buses or absorbed by the few streets leading to the old town, or Barrio Histórico. Within a few minutes, we find ourselves almost alone in one of the main streets, wondering if that is because it is off-season. Had we feared hordes of day-trippers invading the colonial streets, it is definitely not in the morning at this time of the year.
Photo: Travel In Culture
We have arrived in July, which is winter in the southern hemisphere. Nevertheless, despite the temperate climate, the sun has power, and the air is already relatively warm. Strolling around, we take in the colonial atmosphere and spirit of the quaint, narrow cobbled streets.
The historic quarter of Colonia del Sacramento lies on a small peninsula surrounded by water on three sides. The remote town was founded in 1680 by the Portuguese Manuel Lobo, who initiated the construction of a fortress.
For years to come, it repeatedly changed between Portuguese and Spanish rule. Also, Britain showed an interest in the small, fortified town but did not really influence it much. Eventually, in 1828, Colonia del Sacramento became part of the independent Uruguay.
Photo: Travel In Culture
The colonial architecture and urban style are the visible results of the Spanish and Portuguese changing control and, thus, integration of building styles. That many houses are well-preserved is precisely why it is a veritable gem.
Colonia del Sacramento also suggests how other towns along the Río de la Plata have looked at the time. The houses in colonial style give a hint of how houses and quarters in neighbouring cities such as Buenos Aires appeared before modernisation.
Photo: Travel In Culture
One of the unique streets, paved with wedge stones, is the Calle de los Suspiros or Street of Sighs. Several legends exist around the name. According to one of them, men condemned to death were taken along the street to be drowned in the sea – and therefore breathed their last ‘sighs’.
Today, the street is a postcard-like view into old colonial times and may be one of the most photographed streets in Colonia. Nevertheless, we are lucky enough to have it all to ourselves. Strolling around the houses, I genuinely feel that time has stood still for hundreds of years here.
Photo: Travel In Culture
We continue towards the riverfront and the harbour. What surprises me is that Colonia de Sacramento was also once an active smuggling port! The location was remote enough to bypass the compulsory trade measures imposed on the Latin American continent by the Spanish. In this way, it became a strategically important focal point for illegal cross-border trade.
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Like everywhere else in the historic quarter, the harbour is idyllic and peaceful with a stunning view to the 50-kilometre wide river… or estuary – which it is. From where we stand on the river bank, it looks like a sea. Nevertheless, looking in the right direction, it is, on a clear day, accurately possible to discern the tall buildings of Buenos Aires in the distance.
The vibrant waterfront is popular with tourists and locals on a sunny day like today. The harbour features fascinating old vessels, fishing boats and modern yachts.
Colonia del Sacramento tranquility | Photo: Travel In Culture
Barrio Histórico is, with its colonial-style houses, a beautiful neighbourhood with an authentic feel. Its original single-storey, colourful houses are a unique cultural heritage and absolutely scenic!
Wandering around the quaint streets, we soon realise that the Plaza de Armas is the heart of the old town. Bohemian cafés and restaurants surround it and create together with the tall sycamores and palm trees, a relaxed ambience in the historic site. The impressive church with the two towers, Santísimo Sacramento, rises as a landmark of Colonia in the tranquil square.
Photo: Travel In Culture
In the southern direction, another landmark appears. The 19th-century white lighthouse, built over the ruins of the San Francisco Convent, still stands. At the time, it must have been a relief to the many navigating ships passing the rocky river beds near the Uruguayan shores during the dark night. Now and then, they didn’t make it and sank. A lighthouse could have saved the life of many a merchant or smuggler from the past! According to some sources, up to several thousands of ships may have sunk throughout the years, many even having all kinds of treasures on board!
‘Cool Colonial Style in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay’
Another rare and spectacular site some kilometres away from the historic district is the old bullring on Plaza de Toros Real de San Carlos dating back to 1910. It is built in Moorish style, influenced by the building style on the Iberian Peninsula. The Spanish and Portuguese introduced the bullfighting tradition, and eventually, a bullring was established by Argentinian entrepreneurs in Colonia del Sacramento (Uruguay) since it was not allowed in Buenos Aires. They collaborated with Uruguayan businessmen to finance it.
Famous matadors from Argentina crossed the Río de la Plata to fight on Uruguayan ground. A full arena would assemble 10,000 spectators. The aristocracy arrived by passenger steamship on the pier Real San Carlos from Montevideo and Buenos Aires. Waiting carts would take them the short distance to the bullring. However, in 1912, after only eight bullfights, the bullring was abandoned again since the Uruguayan government banned the events.
Photo: Travel In Culture
In addition to the colonial history visible everywhere, we also discover a different side of the town. Colonia del Sacramento surprisingly features handsome vintage cars on the street corners and authentic, old carts from a bygone time. The antique vehicles mix with the classic colonial style in a remarkable way!
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‘Cool Colonial Town’
Featured image of
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay:
Travel In Culture
