Hiking in the Bavarian Alps at Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden
1. The Bavarian Alps
2. The history
3. Hiking at Lake Königssee
4. Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden
5. Hiking at Lake Hintersee / Halsalm
6. Eagle’s Nest
On the car radio, they roll their r’s when we drive into Bavaria or Bayern in German. After Ingolstadt, we pass the weirdest bare fields with rows of thousands of poles connected with suspended wires. The quaint fields seem to continue for miles, and then it dawns on me that it is HOPS cultivation! As it appears, the crop has just been harvested. The hops contribute to the massive beer production for the long-established Bavarian ‘Oktoberfest’ in Munich, north of the Bavarian Alps.
The old village Aschheim, north of Munich, is a convenient stop to get a touch of the local atmosphere. Original farms dot the main street, some still functioning, and others turned into different businesses and purposes like hotels, shops and even a distillery or Brennerei. Just as we pass one of the farms, the farmer returns from the fieldwork on a seemingly outdated tractor, dressed in Lederhosen, the traditional, knee-long leather garment.
The alpine village Berchtesgaden with a couple of peaks in the background | Photo: Travel In Culture
A few hours further south, we eventually arrive at the Bavarian Alps. More precisely, our destination is the small picture-postcard alpine village Berchtesgaden in the German pocket reaching into Austria. Here, we check into one of the picturesque alpine hotels with red geraniums on the balconies. Our accommodating German landlady, Birgit, sincerely welcomes us and takes her time to show us around. All rooms are traditionally decorated with lampshades sewn by hand and embroidery of the snow-capped peaks and cascading meltwater streams on the wall. Neat lace curtains match the knitted tablecloth on the bedside table. A more traditional Tyrolean idyll inside a hotel room does probably not exist!
In the morning we get ready for a hike above the enchanting Lake Königssee. Setting out from the village Schönau am Königssee at the side of the lake nearest the alpine ski resort, we are again reminded of the Tyrolean culture. We pass a street of stands and shops abounding with Bavarian costumes or Tracht: Lederhosen and Dirndl (the women’s colourful Tyrolean dresses with a close-fitting bodice, worn in Austria and Bavaria), beer mugs as well as bath salts and salt crystals from the salt mine Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden.
There are numerous alpine hotels in Berchtesgaden | Photo: Travel In Culture
The mountain village has a rich history centred around the Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden salt mining activities. Already back in the 12th century, salt mining started in Berchtesgaden. After the discovery of the white gold ore, it soon became a valuable source and the economic backbone of the small community.
Over time, it was more industrialised, and a handy brine pipeline was built in 1817. It was such an ingenious construction that it uninterruptedly continued functioning until 1927. Since then, it has been exchanged with considerable bronze pumps that successfully draw out the brine. Still today, it is a perfectly active salt mine!
The white gold industry still plays a significant role in Berchtesgaden, no doubt when seeing the various salt products in the village shops. The fragile, pinkish salt crystals dominate everywhere.
Breathtaking Königssee – walking in the Bavarian Alps | Photo: Travel In Culture
Lake Königssee appears enticingly green due to the natural minerals in the water, and the view is breathtaking in the sunshine.
Having decided to head for Grünsteinhütte, we locate the trail and begin the ascent. It is a trail described as having stretches of both easy and moderate difficulty. Anyway, we are right from the beginning somewhat surprised that the ‘easy’ first part of it is so strenuous. The course is a lot tougher than we have imagined!
Soon realising that the monotonously sloping trail is not going to flatten out, we see a need to produce some walking sticks out of available branches. They prove to be helpful to stand firm and avoid sliding down with rolling gravel as we work our way upwards.
Our ascent is soon challenged by steeper rocks, and we all the time need to pay attention to where we place our feet. Nevertheless, we seem to have opted for the less demanding course. We come across a couple of hikers with appropriate climbing equipment who have just tried the nearby vertical natural climbing wall … that is a different matter! In the distance, we spot a few coloured dots on the dark cliff edge – adventurous climbers!
The trail reveals picturesque mountain views | Photo: Travel In Culture
After a few hours ascent and hiking in the Bavarian Alps, we reach the popular Grünsteinhütte. It is magnificent. We take in the most fantastic pure mountain air and an entirely cobalt blue sky. Even if it is October, our shorts and T-shirts are now fully justified. The temperature is summer-like – 26 degrees centigrade (79 degrees Fahrenheit), far beyond the usual October standard. The icing on the cake is when we treat ourselves to a lightly sparkling black current drink in the café outside Grünsteinhütte. From up here, we have the most fantastic and picturesque view of both Königsee and the mountain peaks of the Bavarian Alps on the other side of the deep valley.
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Back in Berchtesgaden, our accommodation is a relaxing base and place to regain our energy. Birgit serves a solid German breakfast of sausages and cheese. It is an appropriately substantial meal before our planned hikes! Every morning, we receive the local morning paper with the weather forecast, hiking tips for the Bavarian Alps, and a tiny bit of local history.
Berchtesgaden and the Bavarian Alps have something to offer all year round – whether hiking or enjoying nature in some other way. In summer, hikers arrive in droves and in winter, ski enthusiasts flock to the area as the alpine terrain is sublime. The Bavarian Alps unquestionably appeal to many outdoor activities depending on the season.
Our hiking trail leads us to a small mountain church | Photo: Travel In Culture
We feel tempted to take a salt mine tour in Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden, where visitors in the available and obligatory coveralls climb onto the old mine train and ride 650 m (2,133 ft) through the mine tunnels inside the massive mountain.
Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden even allows the visitors to try the wooden slides to get to the lower levels of the mine! This authentic experience is far better than going to a theme park! Afterwards, we take the lift up through the old shaft again. We also get the opportunity to try to go on a raft on a Lord of the Rings-like underground salt lake, where we are even encouraged to taste the pretty concentrated brine. It is VERY salty!
At night, it is surprisingly cold after the pleasantly sunny, summery day. In the morning, it feels chilly to put on shorts at 7 o’clock! However, as expected, temperatures will rise again considerably over the next few hours.
Hintersee lies all beautiful at the foot of the mountains | Photo: Travel In Culture
The next day’s hike is at the small Lake Hintersee, where we intend to reach Halsalm. We soon find the bobsleigh run right outside the forest, where our ascent begins.
Halfway up, we spot a couple of stunning golden eagles elegantly circling above the peak. Now and then, they disappear behind it, and just as suddenly as they have gone, they appear again at a new spot on the clear, blue sky.
With a bit of luck impressive golden eagles can be spotted around the peaks | Photo: Travel In Culture
After a harsh ascent, we reach lush, green pastures in a mountain pass. That is where we find the meadows at Halsalm, where the cows graze. From here, we unexpectedly spot Hitler’s Kehlsteinhaus or the Eagle’s Nest in the distance. Continuing to Obersalzberg, there is a bus up to the historical World War II site for a visit.
Eagle’s Nest is a reminiscence from the Hitler era. It was designed by Martin Bormann and intended to be an idyllic spot which could overshadow all the cruelties of the Nazi regime. With a lavish brass lift, the residence became a legendary place to impress visitors in the otherwise impassable terrain. The lift was spared at the Allied bombing at the end of World War II, and it still appears in its original state. Today, the place has been converted into a prominent restaurant from where you can enjoy the alpine scenery.
After a couple of hours’ ascent lush mountain pastures appear | Photo: Travel In Culture
At the top, we have a magnificent, panoramic view down to Hintersee. On the other lakeside, we can discern a cluster of alpine huts and cottages. The colour play fascinates us, and the view across the Hintersee is incredibly scenic.
We stay for a while to take in all the impressions from the grand alpine scenery and the profound valley. Eventually, we set off for the challenging descent towards the lake. Again, we need our concentration not to step on any tipping rocks or loose gravel. At the slightest sign of potential problems, our walking sticks are promptly and firmly stuck into the ground.
The bare white peaks are lined by forest and infertile land | Photo: Travel In Culture
A few hours later, we are down, with shaky legs, but the feeling of having completed the hike makes the hike all worth it! We enjoy a cold drink on our balcony with a grand view of the mountainside opposite and the freshest alpine air! Hiking in the Bavarian Alps is not that bad, after all!
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Hiking Bavarian Alps, Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden
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Hiking Bavarian Alps Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden – Bavarian Mountains Tour
